Skip to main content

Bangkok Cuban 👍

/images/bangkok-cuban.jpg

Recipe

  • 2 parts golden rum

  • 1 part lime juice

  • 1 part sugar syrup

  • A couple of dashes of angostura bitters

  • 2 lime leaves

  • 4 parts sparkling white wine

Shake the first five ingredients together with ice, strain into a cocktail glass, then add the sparkling wine. Add a lime leaf on top (you can fish one out of the shaker).

I was browsing Mastodon the other day, when I spotted an interesting post on the #cocktails tag. This post featured someone having a French 75 (which I've tried before) along with something called an Old Cuban, which I'd never heard of before! Of course, I had to try it.

The art of cocktail design is the art of swapping ingredients out for each other. There are really very few cocktail "structures", and the more recipes you see the more similarities you notice. French 75 and Old Cuban are the same style: a short sour cocktail topped up with champagne. French 75 uses gin and lemon, while Old Cuban uses rum and lime. Same principle, different base. See also the barracuda.

The other real difference is garnish. French 75 wants a twist of lemon zest, but Old Cuban calls for mint instead. And this is where I went off-piste a bit. Not having mint, I scoured the freezer for some other fresh-tasting herb, and found only lime leaves, that staple of Thai cooking that lends a bright zing to anything it turns up in. Without further ado, I threw them in the shaker and went for it.

The result is superb! A great combination of flavours, with strong, sweet, sour, fragrant and fizzy all balanced nicely. The lime leaves really came out, and I think justified a change of name: not an Old Cuban, but a Bangkok Cuban.

I may try the original sometime when I have mint in. I always have some over the summer during Pimm's season, so watch this space!

Frozen Amarocano 👍

/images/frozen-amarocano.jpg

Recipe

  • 30ml Amaro Montenegro

  • 30ml red vermouth

  • 30ml soda water

Pour the amaro and vermouth into an old-fashioned glass and put it into the freezer for an hour, until just frozen. Add the soda water, stir, and add a thick half-slice of orange.

Amaro is a category of liqueurs, usually Italian, with a bitter or bittersweet taste, based on wine or spirits infused with botanicals. Famous amaros include Campari, Cynar and Jägermeister, all of which I've had at some point, and some of which have appeared on this blog. Now an excellent friend of mine has given me a bottle of Amaro Montenegro, and after a few tastes I was keen to try it in a cocktail.

I've previously enjoyed Campari in an americano) and loved it, so this seemed a good place to start. I followed the usual recipe for an americano, but using this new amaro instead of Campari. Montenegro is much sweeter than Campari, so I was looking forward to something easier to drink.

Here's where things got interesting, because I'd run out of ice. Necessity is the mother of invention, so I decided just to chill the glass and ingredients in the freezer for a while, minus the soda which would go flat. I went ahead and, predictably, forgot about it for an hour so came back to two red ice cubes.

I was contemplating thawing it in the microwave, but then remembered that, of course, many people like frozen cocktails. How bad could it be, I thought, as I added the soda water.

I was lucky! The mix of drinks hadn't frozen solid, but made a sort of snow that stirred easily into liquid, and produced a very nicely textured slush drink. I added the orange as planned, and sipped.

Superb! There are so many flavours in the amaro, with such complexity, yet enough bitterness to make a really well balanced cocktail. And the frozen texture was delightful, with a smooth chill, and none of the crunch of a slush puppy or frozen margarita. Probably getting it to only-just-freezing helps a lot. I'll be experimenting more with frozen drinks in future.

An abundance of squills

This spring, for the first time, I've taken an active interest in wildflowers in St Andrews, and although we're only in March, it's already brought me a lot of joy. In the past I've always enjoyed seeing flowers begin to come out: the transition from snowdrops to crocuses to daffodils to bluebells is a nice pattern to watch, and a happy sign that winter won't last forever. But this year I've paid more attention, and I've been delighted by how many interesting plants are right at my feet when I actually stop to look.

When I go out walking, I've been stopping when I see a flower I don't recognise, and doing my best to identify it. I've been taking Collins British Common Wild Flower Guide out with me, and I can usually get a positive identification, perhaps with some help from Google Lens. I've even kept a little diary of what I've seen on which dates, and seeing new plants spring up each time I go out has been very satisfying.

Lade Braes is a particularly beautiful area, where we are treated each year to carpets of wild spring bulbs, each in their season, all the way along the Kinnessburn from Cockshaugh park westwards. It's my favourite place in St Andrews to walk, and it's where today's story begins.

At the start of March, I noticed these pretty blue flowers appearing all along Lade Braes:

/images/Scilla-forbesii-2.jpg

I'd seen them in previous years, and so I looked for them in the Wild Flower Guide, but there was nothing that seemed to match them. I tried Google Lens, and I couldn't settle on an exact species, but it seemed likely that these were squills: six-petalled perennials of the genus Scilla, which my guide didn't have much on. I decided to take a few photos and investigate further later on. There were plenty of these things all the way along the path, so I got plenty of photos.

When I got home and looked more closely at the photos, I was surprised to see that these plants were not actually all identical. The flowers' shapes and colours, the positions of the stamens and the way they were grouped on the stem, made it clear that I had found at least three different species, none of which were in my book, and none of which I could find much reliable information for online. I went back a few days later to get more photos, and I noticed even more variation than the first time.

Finally I snapped and went to Topping and Co., the booksellers on Greyfriars. I flicked through all the wild flower guides I could find and was still disappointed, until I discovered New Flora of the British Isles, by Clive Stace, a 1200-page tome filled with dense technical descriptions of just about every plant in these isles, including a good section on squills. I bought it (an investment) and took it home to study.

I'm delighted to say that, of the 12 species of Scilla described in Stace's book, we have at least 5 growing here in St Andrews. Hold on tight.

First, the easiest one to spot:

/images/Scilla-forbesii.jpg

Glory-of-the-snow (Scilla forbesii), the most abundant squill on Lade Braes. Note the long "neck" of the flower, as well as the white-to-blue gradient on its petals, and its stamens gathered in the middle.

Glory-of-the-snow used to be considered a separate genus, Chionodoxa, but sometime in the 1970s its close relation to the squills was noted and it was reclassified as a subgenus of Scilla. Also in the Chionodoxa subgenus is the following:

/images/Scilla-sardensis.jpg

Lesser glory-of-the-snow (Scilla sardensis), smaller than S. forbesii and only a single colour. I could only find a few of these on Lade Braes, but I've since found some in my garden!

Third is a more classic squill, although still not one that appears in common wildflower books:

/images/Scilla-bifolia.jpg

Alpine squill (Scilla bifolia), spotted on the path around Cockshaugh park. No "neck", and with stamens that stick out in six different directions. Many flowers bunched up together on each plant.

The fourth and final species gets more abundant as you travel west along Lade Braes, forming nice "carpets" up the bank between the two paths above the burn:

/images/Scilla-siberica-2.jpg

Siberian squill (Scilla siberica), just west of Cockshaugh park. Flower hangs down, with distinctive petal shape and a yellow ovary tucked between the prominent stamens. Note that "Siberian" is a misnomer: it's native to southwestern Russia, the Caucasus, and Turkey.

I also found one more squill, which I had trouble identifying. The key in New Flora didn't quite work, with some features matching the alpine squill and others matching glory-of-the-snow. I was baffled, until I spotted a note in the book mentioning hybrids, and things started to make sense.

For anyone who doesn't know, in biology, a hybrid is an organism resulting from two different species cross-breeding, and will generally have some characteristics of each of the parent species. Some well-known plants and animals are hybrids – for example, a mule being a cross between a horse and a donkey – and some are even fertile enough to establish stable populations.

The book mentioned one notable hybrid squill: a cross between the alpine squill and glory-of-the-snow, the exact two I was torn between. I looked it up online and found this RHS entry, which confirmed it. I give you the hybrid squill!

/images/Scilla-x-allenii.jpg

Hybrid squill (Scilla × allenii), a cross between S. bifolia and S. forbesii, found occasionally on Lade Braes near both parent species. Note the prominent stamens like S. bifolia, but with petals longer and joining together in a "neck" like S. forbesii.

This hybrid is fertile and popular in gardens, so it may have escaped or been planted deliberately as-is. However, both parent species are present nearby, and according to Wikipedia this hybridisation has been seen to occur independently in multiple places. So I wonder if the plants have just hybridised naturally right here in St Andrews!

So there we are: at least 5 different squills growing happily together in our town. I have no idea whether these are truly wild or were planted by the council or volunteers; I do know that several of them are widespread in many nearby gardens, so they do at least seem to spread easily.

If anyone knows anything more about these plants, or can spot any mistakes I've made in my identification, I'd love to learn more. I'm not a botanist, and I had to learn a lot to manage the identifications above.

In the meantime, I believe these should be flowering until April, so you should still have time to go and see them if you're nearby. Treat yourself!

Hide and Fizz 👍

/images/img_2713.jpg

Recipe

  • 2 parts lychee liqueur

  • 1 part dry vermouth

  • 1 part cranberry syrup

  • 4 parts sparkling white wine

Shake the first three ingredients with ice, then strain into a cocktail glass. Add the sparkling white wine and an apricot.

This drink came from The Good Mixer, a section of The Guardian's website. I've had trouble with that section before, because it tends to feature outrageously obscure cocktail ingredients like shiso leaves, tukmaria and vanilla bitters. This week I happened to get lucky: I've got just the end of a bottle of lychee liqueur that I got as a present a year or two ago (it's delicious). It's supposed to be pomegranate syrup instead of cranberry syrup, and the garnish should really be dried cranberries instead of an apricot, but I figured I was close enough.

The result was delightful, a nice approach to the Christmas period. The drink is sweet, but the cranberry adds some much-needed tartness and dryness, and makes it taste complex and grown-up.

Sorry for the blurry picture. Merry Christmas!

Army & Navy 👍

/images/img_2708.jpg

Recipe

  • 6 parts gin

  • 2 parts lemon juice

  • 3 parts orgeat syrup

  • 1 part cold water

  • A couple of drops of angostura bitters

Shake the first four ingredients together with ice, strain into a cocktail glass, then add the bitters on top. Add a twist of orange zest.

I got a bottle of orgeat syrup a while ago for tiki cocktails (see the Mai Tai) and I was impressed with its complexity and aromas. It’s not just almond syrup, it has orange flowers and other stuff too! So I thought I’d see what else I can make.

This is perhaps the most obvious choice: a classic sour cocktail based on gin and lemon, but with orgeat instead of plain old sugar syrup. I might have come up with this myself, but apparently it already has a name: an Army & Navy. It's described in David A. Embury’s influential The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks (1948) where he complains (as usual) about the ratios used, and demands something far sourer than I'd have liked. He also suggests the bitters and water, which are just what it needed. I've adjusted the ratios to my taste.

Overall, it's very nice! You really get the flavours of the orgeat, but it's not sickly. If I was going to adjust it, I'd raise the gin, since it's a little overpowered.

I can't figure out the origin of the name, but it might be that it originated in the "Army and Navy Club" in New York.

Recommended!

Bison grass martini 👍

/images/img_2698.jpg

Recipe

  • 4 parts Żubrówka bison grass vodka

  • 1 part white vermouth

  • Thin slice of lemon peel

Shake together with lots of ice, and strain into a cocktail glass. Cut a thin slice of lemon peel, and fold it once, zest outward, over the glass, then drop it in.

You might have seen, and ignored, bison grass vodka in supermarkets and pubs. Apparently Polish people love it, and some of them drink it with apple juice. I've had a bottle for a year or so and haven't done much with it – a shot once or twice. I figured it might go well in a cocktail, so I finally used it to make the classic Vodka Martini which I thought would bring out its best without disguising any of its flavours.

I absolutely love it! The aromas are so fresh and dry, and the lemon zest complements them perfectly. Every sip is so full of flavour, and that drop of vermouth seems to add the needed sweetness or something, making it so much richer than a simple shot. It's easily as interesting as any gin martini, and is a hundred times more interesting than plain vodka.

I thought it would just be something nice to try, but I think this is a contender for new favourite drink. I'll be having more in the future!

New York Sour 👍

/images/img_2693.jpg

Recipe

  • 3 parts bourbon whiskey (or rye)

  • 1 part lemon juice

  • 1 part red wine

  • 1 part sugar syrup

Shake the whiskey, lemon juice and syrup together with ice and strain into a rocks glass filled with fresh ice. Pour the wine over a teaspoon on the top of the drink so that it floats on top. Add a twist of lemon zest.

Excellent fun to look at, and a more interesting drink to taste than the simpler whiskey sour, which had never done much for me.

The chilled red wine is very drinkable, and since you drink most of it first it acts as a nice build-up to the stronger, spirit-based main course below.

Could probably be improved by adding bitters at the whiskey stage. This might help add complexity, which is lacking.

Golden Apple 👍

/images/img_2462.jpg

Recipe

  • 3 parts apple brandy (e.g. Calvados)

  • 1 part lemon juice

  • 1 part sugar syrup

  • A few drops of Angostura bitters

Cut a thin slice out of the centre of a nice sweet apple, admire the 5-pointed rotational symmetry, and put it in a cocktail glass. Shake the brandy, lemon juice and syrup with ice and strain into the glass. Add a couple of drops of bitters.

I made this up the other night when I wanted to try something different. I stuck to the usual 3:1:1 sour cocktail formula I love, and added a little bitters ("the salt and pepper of cocktails") just to add depth.

The result was beautiful: intensely sharp but just sweet enough that it was a delight to drink. Apple works well as a garnish, and this was much less sickly than my various attempts at a mapletini.

I'd have this again!

Limoncello sour 👍

/images/img_2247-1.jpg

Recipe

  • 3 parts vodka

  • 2 parts limoncello

  • 1 part lemon juice

Shake with ice and strain into a cocktail glass. Add a twist of lemon zest.

I was out in an Italian restaurant in St Andrews on Thursday, and I was delighted by the cocktails that were offered. After a strong recommendation, I tried the "limoncello martini" in lieu of pudding, and was impressed enough that I decided to make one myself.

The taste is all about the limoncello. On its own it's a lovely liqueur, but it's very strongly flavoured and in larger quantities it's quite overpowering. Here, it plays the role of "sweet" in a classic sour cocktail, and the other ingredients provide a stage for it to shine magnificently -- the vodka gives a strong boozy hit with utterly neutral flavour, and the lemon juice offsets the sweet and bitter zesty tastes of the limoncello in a very natural way. If you like limoncello, you'll like this.

I object to the slapping of the label "martini" on anything that comes in a cocktail glass -- see for example the espresso martini, the French martini and the pornstar martini, none of which have actual Italian vermouth anywhere near them. It seems to be a lazy naming scheme originating from patronising marketing people who think that the public won't buy anything they haven't heard of. Many of these names are now established, but since this one's new, I'm going to refer to this as what it really is: a limoncello sour.